13 Must-Ask Questions to Protect Your Wallet When Buying a Used Car

August 11, 2025
By Dawson Lee
6 min read
13 Must-Ask Questions to Protect Your Wallet When Buying a Used Car

Buying a used car can feel like stepping into a poker game where you’re not sure how many cards you’re missing. You know the stakes are high, you know someone at the table has more information than you, and you’re hoping you don’t walk away with the automotive equivalent of a royal bluff.

I’ve been around enough car lots, private driveways, and back-of-the-mechanic-shop transactions to know that buying a used vehicle is part art, part science, and part detective work. It’s rarely just about the sticker price—it’s about the questions you ask, how you listen to the answers, and the paper trail (or lack of one) that follows.

So, let’s lay out thirteen key questions that will help you dodge financial headaches and give you a better shot at driving home in a car that’s worth every dollar you spend. These aren’t the vague, generic lines you see floating around. Each question is here because I’ve seen it matter—sometimes in big, costly ways.

1. Can I See the Full Vehicle History Report?

This is the opening move of your information-gathering game. A proper vehicle history report—through Carfax, AutoCheck, or a similar service—can show accident records, title issues, past ownership, mileage accuracy, and sometimes even maintenance history.

Why it matters: A clean title and verifiable odometer reading can prevent thousands in hidden costs down the road. Salvage or rebuilt titles can mean the car was once deemed a total loss by an insurer. That’s not necessarily a deal-breaker, but it should heavily influence the price and your expectations.

Pro tip: Don’t just accept the seller’s printout. Look up the VIN yourself and run the report. I’ve seen situations where the “clean” report shown to the buyer was from months before a major incident.

2. Do You Have Service and Maintenance Records?

A well-kept maintenance log is a peek into the car’s health history. You’ll see whether oil changes were timely, if the timing belt was replaced on schedule, or if there’s a recurring issue the owner has been ignoring.

Here’s the thing—service records are more than receipts; they’re a pattern of care. A car that’s had the oil changed at the right intervals and major services done on time often lasts longer and runs better.

Insider reality: If a seller has zero paperwork, you should assume the maintenance was inconsistent. That doesn’t mean it’s a “no” right away, but you’ll want a mechanic to dig deeper.

3. *Has the Car Ever Been in an Accident?

Some sellers will volunteer this; others will sidestep. That’s why you pair this question with the history report. What you’re looking for is consistency between the seller’s answer and the official record.

Why it matters: Even minor accidents can cause hidden damage to suspension, frame alignment, or safety systems. Major repairs may also void certain warranties.

Firsthand note: I once inspected a sedan that looked perfect at first glance, but a quick check under the hood revealed mismatched welds—an indicator of a front-end collision repair. That detail saved the buyer $4,000 in potential repairs.

4. Why Are You Selling the Car?

You won’t always get the truth here, but how the seller answers can tell you something. Hesitation, vague responses, or over-explaining may signal issues they’re trying to gloss over.

If the seller says they “just upgraded” or “don’t need it anymore,” ask follow-up questions: How long have you owned it? What’s your favorite thing about it? What’s the most recent repair? The answers often reveal more than the initial statement.

5. Can I Take It for an Independent Inspection?

This is non-negotiable. A pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a trusted, independent mechanic can uncover problems invisible during a test drive—like leaks, worn brake pads, or impending transmission trouble.

According to AAA, one in three used cars they inspect has at least one issue that could cost over $1,000 to repair. That’s exactly why you invest in the PPI.

Pro insight: If a seller refuses this outright, that’s usually your sign to walk away.

6. Is the Price Negotiable, and How Did You Arrive at It?

This isn’t about starting a haggling war—it’s about understanding how the seller values the car. Are they basing it on Kelley Blue Book, market trends, or just sentimentality?

Knowing the price source helps you gauge room for negotiation. For example, if the market average for similar models is $2,000 lower, you’ve got evidence to support your counteroffer.

7. Has the Odometer Ever Been Replaced or Rolled Back?

It’s rare these days, but odometer fraud still happens. Mileage impacts everything from insurance rates to resale value. If the odometer was replaced, there should be documentation with the exact mileage at the time.

Quick reality check: Cars with unusually low mileage for their age deserve a closer look. A 10-year-old vehicle with 30,000 miles could be a gem—or a garage queen with hidden mechanical issues from sitting too long.

8. Are There Any Recalls on This Model?

Recalls can range from minor software updates to serious safety defects. You can check the car’s VIN on the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) website, but it’s worth asking the seller directly to see if they’ve addressed any past recalls.

If recall work was done, request the service records. If it wasn’t, factor in the time and hassle you’ll need to get it fixed.

9. Does It Come with Any Remaining Warranty or Extended Coverage?

Some manufacturer warranties are transferable. If you’re lucky, you might still have a few years or miles left on a powertrain or bumper-to-bumper warranty. Extended warranties or service contracts may also carry over.

Make sure to get all warranty transfer details in writing. Verbal promises mean nothing if the manufacturer’s database doesn’t list you as the covered owner.

10. What’s the Fuel Economy in Real-World Use?

The EPA fuel economy rating is a starting point, but actual mileage can vary significantly based on driving habits and maintenance. Ask the seller what they typically get per tank.

This matters because poor fuel efficiency could be a sign of mechanical problems—worn spark plugs, dirty air filters, or transmission issues.

11. Has the Car Ever Had Major Mechanical Work?

Engine rebuilds, transmission replacements, and major suspension overhauls are big-ticket repairs. If they were done recently and correctly, that’s often a plus—it means those components are essentially “reset” in their lifespan.

But if the repairs were done years ago or by an unknown shop, you’ll want to dig into the quality of the work and whether related components were serviced at the same time.

12. Can You Provide the Title and Registration for Verification?

You want to confirm that the seller is the legal owner and that there are no liens on the car. A lien means someone else—usually a bank—still has a financial claim on the vehicle.

If the seller says the title is “in the mail” or “with the bank,” proceed with extreme caution. You can verify title status with your state’s Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV).

13. What’s Included in the Sale?

Sometimes a “fully loaded” car mysteriously loses its roof rack, second key fob, or winter tire set between the first viewing and the final handshake. Make sure you know exactly what comes with the purchase—spare tires, manuals, accessories, even that fancy aftermarket stereo.

Write it all down in the bill of sale. This prevents awkward disputes later.

Insider’s Edge

When you ask these questions, pay attention not just to the answers, but to how quickly and confidently they’re given. Hesitation can be as revealing as a bad report.

The Final Word

Buying a used car isn’t about finding the perfect vehicle—it’s about avoiding the wrong one. By asking these thirteen questions, you’re essentially running a filter that weeds out the lemons, the overpriced, and the too-good-to-be-true deals.

The smartest buyers know that the real value in a car isn’t just what you pay upfront, but how much you don’t have to spend after you’ve parked it in your driveway. Your wallet—and your peace of mind—are worth the extra effort.

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